OMG thank you so much for this course! I got a new brother Coverstitch and haven’t been able to sew with it, watched your troubleshooting lesson hey presto it works, it was like the hallelujah chorus in my house ??
That is so wonderful to hear, we just love to hear when our customers have gotten to grips with their own machines. We hope you and your Coverstitch have many happy sewing times together!
Hi ladies, I have recently bought the Janome 2000, I’m about half way through your tutorial, which I fabulous. I’m struggling a bit with how you are threading the t bar, it’s very quick and because the thread is white against the white t bar it’s difficult to make it out, are you able to take a photograph of this please. Thank you.
Hi Dot, Most T-bars can simply be threaded from the back to the front, bringing the thread through the hole towards the machine. Some require you to loop the thread around the top of the bar but this is only for some machines, check your manual and it should give you instructions. I hope this helps.
Hello Nikki and Rachel, I’ve been enjoying the videos and have found it helpful, thank you.
I’ve a Coverpro 2000 and am having a bit of a nightmare coverstitching elastic into a waist with a wide 2 thread stitch. I overlock the elastic and then coverstitch it. I have fiddled with so many settings and my tension (and the machines!) were just way too high. I’ve got it at a good setting now – if I stitch through elastic that is already attached (testing on the waistband of a tester pair of leggings) its great, but when I use those settings to do a new waistband where I have to pull my elastic to fit the fabric, the loops at the back is just a bit loose. If I adjust tensions it then becomes very ‘pully’. I am ready to down a bottle of gin – please can you do a tutorial on attaching elastic or point me in a direction of what to do!
Hi Christa, apologies we seem to have missed your comment! Did you end up downing that bottle of gin?! It is so hard to keep the tension even when stretching elastic manually, which is why Janome have an elastic attachement for the coverstitch. However, it only takes thinner elastics and probably too thin for a pair of leggings. Maybe they come up with a wider one in the future. In the meantime, if it were me, I would attach the elastic to the raw edge of the leggings with an overlocker, then turn it to the inside and coverstitch in place. Let me know if you already managed to figure it out x
It was so long ago, I cannot remember about the gin! I managed to get the stitching decent in the end and use the method you describe. Thank you for your answer.
New question – attaching elastic as per above but only using cotton thread including in the looper and it looks bad at the back. Is that because the looper should be a strethcy thread like wooly nylon (which I normally use, but item is for someone who only wants me to use 100% cotton)?
Just watched this and was wondering if there are any tips about sewing the hem in the round for finishing? Before this when I was using my sewing machine – sometimes I wouldn’t end up at exactly the same place, but I think it might be more noticeable with 3 lines of stitching. Any tips? Is it worth buying a transparent foot so you can see where to start and stop stitching?
Hi Louise, I tend to use the markings on the foot. There are usually little ridges at the tip of the foot that align with the needles. As I am coming back to my starting stitches, I make sure these ridges are lining up with the stitch lines. If your foot doesn’t have them, you could try drawing them on with a sharpie. Failing that, a clear foot would definitely allow you to see better.
Thanks – I’ve got used to using the ridges on the foot as a guide and am using my finger to “feel” and feed the fabric through at the right position and it seems to work quite well. It’s a pity that the Janome CoverPro cpx 2000 doesn’t come with a clear foot so you can see when the stitches overlap and stop stitching when sowing a round on a hem especially on an arm hem.
Hi, I have the same machine you demo with: I did my first teeshirt hem last weekend and the fabric dragged and puckered all round. It looked ok after pressing but I would love to know why this happened and what knob I need to twiddle to stop it happening again.
OMG thank you so much for this course! I got a new brother Coverstitch and haven’t been able to sew with it, watched your troubleshooting lesson hey presto it works, it was like the hallelujah chorus in my house ??
That is so wonderful to hear, we just love to hear when our customers have gotten to grips with their own machines.
We hope you and your Coverstitch have many happy sewing times together!
Hi ladies, I have recently bought the Janome 2000, I’m about half way through your tutorial, which I fabulous. I’m struggling a bit with how you are threading the t bar, it’s very quick and because the thread is white against the white t bar it’s difficult to make it out, are you able to take a photograph of this please. Thank you.
Hi Dot,
Most T-bars can simply be threaded from the back to the front, bringing the thread through the hole towards the machine. Some require you to loop the thread around the top of the bar but this is only for some machines, check your manual and it should give you instructions.
I hope this helps.
Hello Nikki and Rachel,
I’ve been enjoying the videos and have found it helpful, thank you.
I’ve a Coverpro 2000 and am having a bit of a nightmare coverstitching elastic into a waist with a wide 2 thread stitch. I overlock the elastic and then coverstitch it. I have fiddled with so many settings and my tension (and the machines!) were just way too high. I’ve got it at a good setting now – if I stitch through elastic that is already attached (testing on the waistband of a tester pair of leggings) its great, but when I use those settings to do a new waistband where I have to pull my elastic to fit the fabric, the loops at the back is just a bit loose. If I adjust tensions it then becomes very ‘pully’. I am ready to down a bottle of gin – please can you do a tutorial on attaching elastic or point me in a direction of what to do!
Take care,
Christa
Hi Christa, apologies we seem to have missed your comment! Did you end up downing that bottle of gin?! It is so hard to keep the tension even when stretching elastic manually, which is why Janome have an elastic attachement for the coverstitch. However, it only takes thinner elastics and probably too thin for a pair of leggings. Maybe they come up with a wider one in the future. In the meantime, if it were me, I would attach the elastic to the raw edge of the leggings with an overlocker, then turn it to the inside and coverstitch in place. Let me know if you already managed to figure it out x
Hello lovely ladies,
Rachel – I LOVE your new hair!!!!!
It was so long ago, I cannot remember about the gin! I managed to get the stitching decent in the end and use the method you describe. Thank you for your answer.
New question – attaching elastic as per above but only using cotton thread including in the looper and it looks bad at the back. Is that because the looper should be a strethcy thread like wooly nylon (which I normally use, but item is for someone who only wants me to use 100% cotton)?
Thank you and take care,
Christa x
Just watched this and was wondering if there are any tips about sewing the hem in the round for finishing? Before this when I was using my sewing machine – sometimes I wouldn’t end up at exactly the same place, but I think it might be more noticeable with 3 lines of stitching. Any tips? Is it worth buying a transparent foot so you can see where to start and stop stitching?
Hi Louise, I tend to use the markings on the foot. There are usually little ridges at the tip of the foot that align with the needles. As I am coming back to my starting stitches, I make sure these ridges are lining up with the stitch lines. If your foot doesn’t have them, you could try drawing them on with a sharpie. Failing that, a clear foot would definitely allow you to see better.
Thanks – I’ve got used to using the ridges on the foot as a guide and am using my finger to “feel” and feed the fabric through at the right position and it seems to work quite well. It’s a pity that the Janome CoverPro cpx 2000 doesn’t come with a clear foot so you can see when the stitches overlap and stop stitching when sowing a round on a hem especially on an arm hem.
Hi, I have the same machine you demo with: I did my first teeshirt hem last weekend and the fabric dragged and puckered all round. It looked ok after pressing but I would love to know why this happened and what knob I need to twiddle to stop it happening again.
Hi Sarah
Have a look at the troubleshooting section, hopefully this will help you sort it out