Fancy some DIY Dungaree Overalls? We can’t wait to share our quick and easy Dungaree Tutorial with you!
We all love dungarees and who wouldn’t want an oversized super comfy pair, perfect for lockdown? Especially if it involves a free and simple draft your own pattern and tutorial!
Ready to jump straight in?
Whilst spending so much time at home recently, Rachel was suddenly craving a pair of the casual oversized dungarees that have been all over social media for a couple of years now – especially the style and fit of the hugely popular range from Lucy & Yak.
Rather than buy a pair she thought she would attempt to make her own without a pattern! Rachel loves pattern drafting even more than sewing, and she finds projects when you draft directly onto the fabric are the most fun of all. It took her several attempts to get the fit just right. She wanted something really roomy at the waist and hips and slightly tapered at the hem.
So, lets get started
Need to learn the basics of a sewing machine first?
Check out our FREE Learn To Sew class now!
DIY Dungaree Overalls Tutorial
You will need 2-3m depending on the width of the fabric, your measurements and your desired length.
Taking Your Measurements
- At the same height as your underarms, find the centre of your chest (you could tie an elastic under your arms if you want something physical to help you get the right height). Let your tape measure hang from this point to the level of your ankle, or where you want your dungarees to end. (Do this in a mirror so you can see the measurement.) This is going to be the length of your rectangles. (Rachel’s was 50”)
- FRONT WIDTH
- Measure your hips at their fullest point. Divide this measurement by 4. Then add 5”. This is the width of your FRONT rectangles. (Rachel’s was 43 ÷ 4 = 10.75 + 5 = 15.75 rounded up to 16”)
- BACK WIDTH
- Add 1” to your previous calculation. This is the width of your BACK rectangles. (Rachel’s was 17”)
- CENTRE SEAM
- Make sure you are wearing trousers or something with a crotch seam (the crotch seam is where your inside legs, and front/back crotch seams intersect – it indicates the halfway point between your legs). Hold your tape measure back at your centre chest position (just as you did for your length measurement), run the tape measure down your centre front and then under your crotch. Measure to where the crotch seam is on your trousers (the halfway point underneath your body). (Rachel’s was 26”)
Cutting Your Fabric
- Start by cutting four rectangles. Two for the FRONT and two for the BACK. The rectangles will be your length measurement by your width measurement. They are almost the same, except that the BACK is 1” wider than the front.
- Cut a strip of fabric 4” by 60” (or piece the length from smaller pieces depending on the size of your fabric)
- Cut a strip of fabric 2.5” by 10” (this will make two loops)
- MAIN POCKET
- Cut a rectangle that is 10” wide by 12” deep (or smaller if you want a smaller pocket, using a 5:6 ratio)
- BACK POCKETS
- Cut two rectangles 8” wide by 9.5” deep (or smaller if you want smaller pockets, using a 5:6 ratio)
Creating The Pattern
The Front Pieces
- Let’s first identify the pieces. With your rectangle positioned so that the print (if your fabric has one) is the right way up and the short edge is at the top – the right long edge is the CENTRE FRONT (CF) and the left long edge is the SIDE SEAM (SS). (Mark them if you wish.)
- At the top edge, measure and mark 3” in from CF (a). Then plot your CENTRE SEAM measurement (Rachel’s was 26”) down the CF edge (b). Draw a line that starts at your 3” mark and continues parallel to CF until you are a few inches away from your CENTRE SEAM measurement. Then use a curve to connect your straight line to the CENTRE SEAM mark and create your crotch curve (c).
- On the other side, measure and mark 6” in from the SS (d). Then measure 10-12” down the SS edge (this determines how low your opening is at the side – we used the full 12”) (e). From whichever point you choose, draw a 2” line at right angles to the SS (f). Then use a curve to connect to the mark at the top (g).
- Moving to the bottom half of your pattern, measure and mark 5” in from CF at the hem (h). Then connect this with a straight line to your crotch curve (i).
- Using a ruler, mark a point on your SS that is opposite the widest point of your crotch curve (j & k). Then measure 1.5” above and 1.5” below this point (l). This is going to help give us some shaping at the hip area.
- Measure 1” in from the SS on the horizontal section of your opening (m). Connect the top mark at your hip to this point (n).
- Measure 1” in from the SS at the hem (o). Connect the bottom mark at your hip to this point (p).
- The front is now finished. Time to move onto the back.
The Back Pieces
- The back is created in exactly the same with a few differences to the measurements…
- Position your fabric is the same way so that the short edge is at the top, the right long edge is CENTRE BACK (CB) and the left long edge is the SIDE SEAM (SS).
- At the top edge, measure and mark 4” in from CB. Then measure your CENTRE SEAM measurement down the CB edge. Draw a line that starts at your 4” mark and continues parallel to CB until you are a few inches away from your CENTRE SEAM measurement. Then use a curve to connect your straight line to the CENTRE SEAM mark and create your crotch curve.
- On the other side, measure and mark 7” in from the SS. Then measure 10-12” down the SS edge (use the same as you used for the front). Draw a 2” line at right angles to the SS. Then use a curve to connect to the mark at the top.
- Moving to the bottom half of your pattern, measure and mark 5.5” in from CB at the hem. Then connect this with a straight line to your crotch curve.
- Using a ruler, mark a point on your SS that is opposite the widest point of your crotch curve. Then measure 1.5” above and 1.5” below this point. This is going to help give us some shaping at the hip area.
- Measure 1” in from the SS on the horizontal section of your opening. Connect the top mark at your hip to this point.
- Measure 1” in from the SS at the hem. Connect the bottom mark at your hip to this point.
- The back is now finished. Time to move onto the pockets.
- This step is only necessary if you want your pockets to have a point at the bottom…
- Take your MAIN POCKET and fold it in half on the short edge (to create a shape that is now 5” wide by 12” long). At the raw edges, measure 2” up from the bottom. Draw a line that connects this to the fold, and cut along the line. The sides of your pockets are now 2” shorter than the center, creating your point.
- Repeat this for your BACK POCKETS, except this time you only need to measure 1.5” up as they are a smaller size.
Sewing Your DIY Dungaree Overalls
(⅝” seam unless stated otherwise)
Preparing the Pieces
Most people will need roughly 2-3m of fabric. When it comes to working out how much exactly there are a few things to consider. If your fabric is plain or has a multi-way print, you could cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain depending on which uses less fabric. Depending on the width of the fabric and/or the size of your hips, you may be able to fit both your rectangles side by side on the folded fabric. If your fabric is narrow, or your hips are wider, you may need to cut them one below the other.
Pockets, Straps & Loops
We are going to start by preparing the pockets, straps and loops before we move onto the main construction…
- Take your strap piece (if you are piecing it do that first to give you one long strip) and fold it in half on the long edge to create a shape that is 2” wide by 60” long. Sew all along the long edge with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance to create a tube. Using a safety pin, bodkin, or turning tool; turn the strap through to the right side and press flat.
- If you wish you can topstitch along both long edges approx 1/8″ from the edge.
- Repeat this last step but with your loop pieces, folding it on the long edge to create a shape that is 1¼” wide by 10”. Sew the long edge with the same 3/8” seam allowance and trim the seam to half the size. Then turn it through and press. Topstitch if you wish and then cut the strip in half to create two loops.
- Now we are going to take your main pocket and press under ¼” at the top edge. We also need to press under by 1¼” to create your hem. Topstitch the hem in place close to the fold. Press under the side and bottom edges of the pocket by ⅝”.
- Repeat the previous step for your back pockets, this time with a ¼” turn followed by a 1” turn. Topstitch and press as before.
- Top Tip! If you wish, you can have some fun with your pocket by topstitching a design on it with contrasting threads. We love the free downloadable guide from Closet Case Patterns.
Now, onto the two front pieces…
- Laying them right sides together (RST). Match up the CF from the top to the end of crotch curve (the wider part). Stitch with a ⅝” seam. (Don’t sew below the crotch curve as this will be the leg portion of the dungarees.) Finish the raw edge in your chosen manner (pinking shears, overlock, zig-zag, etc) and press.
Want a better finish on the inside of your garments?
Check out our Guide to Overlocker class now!
- Hem the sides of your front with a double turn of 3/8” (1cm).
- Next, hem the top edge of your front with a turn of ¼” followed by a second turn of 1¼”. Topstitch close to the fold as you did for the top of the pocket.
- Grab your main pocket, and position it 3” down from the top edge. Now, fold your pocket in half to find the center, and then line it up with the CF seam. Next, you should pin this in place and then topstitch the sides and bottom edges to attach it.
Moving onto the back pieces….
- It’s best to attach the pockets before joining the center seam. Measure 10” up from the widest point of the crotch. This is where the top of your pocket will sit. Position it so that it is centered with an equal amount of fabric on either side. Pin in place, repeat for the other piece, and then topstitch it in place.
- Now you can join the back pieces together at the center seam, hem the opening edges and the top edge exactly as you did for the front pieces.
- Take your front piece and your back piece and lay them right sides together. Stitch them together at the side seams from the hemmed opening all the way down to the hem. Finish the raw edges and press.
- Sew the inside leg seams, starting at one leg then sewing up over the crotch seam and back down the other leg. Finish the raw edge and press.
Top Tip! If you want to test the fit of your dungarees at this point, try them on pinning the top of the front and back to a t-shirt. Take in or let out the side seams as desired…
Attaching The Loops
- Take your loop pieces and fold them so that the raw edges are together and it is not twisted. Finish the raw edges as desired, then position them at each edge of front bib lined up with the bottom of the hem. The loop should be behind the bib, visible above the top but with the raw edges hidden behind. Stitch in place with a couple of straight lines, a box or a box with a cross inside.
- Grab your long strap piece and tuck the raw edges back inside to form a clean edge. Topstitch the edges in place. Then attach a safety pin to one end of the strap and feed it into the channel created by the hem at the back. Pull through until the strap has an even amount sticking out of each side. Finally, topstitch along the centre back on the hem to anchor the strap in place.
- Finish the bottom hem as desired. We just did two folds of 3/8” and them topstitched it in place.
Wearing Your DIY Dungaree Overalls
To tie the dungarees, take one side of the strap and pass it through the loop at the front, and then tie it in a knot to hold in place. Repeat on the other side.
Once you have them tied as you wish, it is possible to get them on and off without untying them so you won’t need to do that every time.
As another option, try cutting the strap in two. You can then attach the raw edges of each strap to the back of the bib, just as you did the loop. Each strap can then come directly over your shoulder and through the loop.
Or as I did on my red ones, you can leave off the loops and pass the strap through the back channel and then around and through the front channel, tying them together on one shoulder.
And then you are done!
We hope you enjoyed this Dungaree Tutorial and that you decide to make your own super comfy dungarees. If you do make your own DIY Dungaree Overalls, please make sure to tag us on social media or send us a picture!
We definitely have more pairs of these DIY Dungaree Overalls planned, so keep your eyes peeled.
Stay safe and keep smiling!
Rachel & Nikki