DIY Dungaree Overalls Tutorial – Quick, Simple, Comfy & Stylish!

Fancy some DIY Dungaree Overalls? We can’t wait to share our quick and easy Dungaree Tutorial with you!

We all love dungarees and who wouldn’t want an oversized super comfy pair, perfect for lockdown? Especially if it involves a free and simple draft your own pattern and tutorial!

Whilst spending so much time at home recently, Rachel was suddenly craving a pair of the casual oversized dungarees that have been all over social media for a couple of years now – especially the style and fit of the hugely popular range from Lucy & Yak.

Lucy & Yak Dungarees

Rather than buy a pair she thought she would attempt to make her own without a pattern! Rachel loves pattern drafting even more than sewing, and she finds projects when you draft directly onto the fabric are the most fun of all. It took her several attempts to get the fit just right. She wanted something really roomy at the waist and hips and slightly tapered at the hem.

So, lets get started


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DIY Dungaree Overalls Tutorial

You will need 2-3m depending on the width of the fabric, your measurements and your desired length.

Taking Your Measurements

  • At the same height as your underarms, find the centre of your chest (you could tie an elastic under your arms if you want something physical to help you get the right height). Let your tape measure hang from this point to the level of your ankle, or where you want your dungarees to end. (Do this in a mirror so you can see the measurement.) This is going to be the length of your rectangles. (Rachel’s was 50”)
  • Measure your hips at their fullest point. Divide this measurement by 4. Then add 5”. This is the width of your FRONT rectangles. (Rachel’s was 43 ÷ 4 = 10.75 + 5 = 15.75 rounded up to 16”)
  • Add 1” to your previous calculation. This is the width of your BACK rectangles. (Rachel’s was 17”)
  • Make sure you are wearing trousers or something with a crotch seam (the crotch seam is where your inside legs, and front/back crotch seams intersect – it indicates the halfway point between your legs). Hold your tape measure back at your centre chest position (just as you did for your length measurement), run the tape measure down your centre front and then under your crotch. Measure to where the crotch seam is on your trousers (the halfway point underneath your body). (Rachel’s was 26”)

Cutting Your Fabric

  • MAIN
  • Start by cutting four rectangles. Two for the FRONT and two for the BACK. The rectangles will be your length measurement by your width measurement. They are almost the same, except that the BACK is 1” wider than the front.
  • Cut a strip of fabric 4” by 60” (or piece the length from smaller pieces depending on the size of your fabric) 
  • Cut a strip of fabric 2.5” by 10” (this will make two loops)
  • Cut a rectangle that is 10” wide by 12” deep (or smaller if you want a smaller pocket, using a 5:6 ratio)
  • Cut two rectangles 8” wide by 9.5” deep (or smaller if you want smaller pockets, using a 5:6 ratio)

Creating The Pattern

The Front Pieces

  • Let’s first identify the pieces. With your rectangle positioned so that the print (if your fabric has one) is the right way up and the short edge is at the top – the right long edge is the CENTRE FRONT (CF) and the left long edge is the SIDE SEAM (SS). (Mark them if you wish.)
  • At the top edge, measure and mark 3” in from CF (a). Then plot your CENTRE SEAM measurement (Rachel’s was 26”) down the CF edge (b). Draw a line that starts at your 3” mark and continues parallel to CF until you are a few inches away from your CENTRE SEAM measurement. Then use a curve to connect your straight line to the CENTRE SEAM mark and create your crotch curve (c).
  • On the other side, measure and mark 6” in from the SS (d). Then measure 10-12” down the SS edge (this determines how low your opening is at the side – we used the full 12”) (e). From whichever point you choose, draw a 2” line at right angles to the SS (f). Then use a curve to connect to the mark at the top (g)
  • Moving to the bottom half of your pattern, measure and mark 5” in from CF at the hem (h). Then connect this with a straight line to your crotch curve (i)
  • Using a ruler, mark a point on your SS that is opposite the widest point of your crotch curve (j & k). Then measure 1.5” above and 1.5” below this point (l). This is going to help give us some shaping at the hip area. 
  • Measure 1” in from the SS on the horizontal section of your opening (m). Connect the top mark at your hip to this point (n).
  • Measure 1” in from the SS at the hem (o). Connect the bottom mark at your hip to this point (p)
  • The front is now finished. Time to move onto the back. 

The Back Pieces

  • The back is created in exactly the same with a few differences to the measurements…
  • Position your fabric is the same way so that the short edge is at the top, the right long edge is CENTRE BACK (CB) and the left long edge is the SIDE SEAM (SS).
  • At the top edge, measure and mark 4” in from CB. Then measure your CENTRE SEAM measurement down the CB edge. Draw a line that starts at your 4” mark and continues parallel to CB until you are a few inches away from your CENTRE SEAM measurement. Then use a curve to connect your straight line to the CENTRE SEAM mark and create your crotch curve.
  • On the other side, measure and mark 7” in from the SS. Then measure 10-12” down the SS edge (use the same as you used for the front). Draw a 2” line at right angles to the SS. Then use a curve to connect to the mark at the top.
  • Moving to the bottom half of your pattern, measure and mark 5.5” in from CB at the hem. Then connect this with a straight line to your crotch curve.
  • Using a ruler, mark a point on your SS that is opposite the widest point of your crotch curve. Then measure 1.5” above and 1.5” below this point. This is going to help give us some shaping at the hip area.
  • Measure 1” in from the SS on the horizontal section of your opening. Connect the top mark at your hip to this point.
  • Measure 1” in from the SS at the hem. Connect the bottom mark at your hip to this point.
  • The back is now finished. Time to move onto the pockets.

The Pockets

  • This step is only necessary if you want your pockets to have a point at the bottom…
  • Take your MAIN POCKET and fold it in half on the short edge (to create a shape that is now 5” wide by 12” long). At the raw edges, measure 2” up from the bottom. Draw a line that connects this to the fold, and cut along the line. The sides of your pockets are now 2” shorter than the center, creating your point.
  • Repeat this for your BACK POCKETS, except this time you only need to measure 1.5” up as they are a smaller size.

Sewing Your DIY Dungaree Overalls

(⅝” seam unless stated otherwise)

Preparing the Pieces

Most people will need roughly 2-3m of fabric. When it comes to working out how much exactly there are a few things to consider. If your fabric is plain or has a multi-way print, you could cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain depending on which uses less fabric. Depending on the width of the fabric and/or the size of your hips, you may be able to fit both your rectangles side by side on the folded fabric. If your fabric is narrow, or your hips are wider, you may need to cut them one below the other.


Pockets, Straps & Loops

We are going to start by preparing the pockets, straps and loops before we move onto the main construction…

  • Take your strap piece (if you are piecing it do that first to give you one long strip) and fold it in half on the long edge to create a shape that is 2” wide by 60” long. Sew all along the long edge with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance to create a tube. Using a safety pin, bodkin, or turning tool; turn the strap through to the right side and press flat.
  • If you wish you can topstitch along both long edges approx 1/8″ from the edge.
Topstitching the straps
  • Repeat this last step but with your loop pieces, folding it on the long edge to create a shape that is 1¼” wide by 10”. Sew the long edge with the same 3/8” seam allowance and trim the seam to half the size. Then turn it through and press. Topstitch if you wish and then cut the strip in half to create two loops.


  • Now we are going to take your main pocket and press under ¼” at the top edge. We also need to press under by 1¼” to create your hem. Topstitch the hem in place close to the fold. Press under the side and bottom edges of the pocket by ⅝”.
  • Repeat the previous step for your back pockets, this time with a ¼” turn followed by a 1” turn. Topstitch and press as before.
  • Top Tip! If you wish, you can have some fun with your pocket by topstitching a design on it with contrasting threads. We love the free downloadable guide from Closet Case Patterns.

Now, onto the two front pieces…

  • Laying them right sides together (RST). Match up the CF from the top to the end of crotch curve (the wider part). Stitch with a ⅝” seam. (Don’t sew below the crotch curve as this will be the leg portion of the dungarees.) Finish the raw edge in your chosen manner (pinking shears, overlock, zig-zag, etc) and press.
Sewing the CF seam from top to crotch

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  • Hem the sides of your front with a double turn of 3/8” (1cm). 
  • Next, hem the top edge of your front with a turn of ¼” followed by a second turn of 1¼”. Topstitch close to the fold as you did for the top of the pocket.
Turning your hem on the bib
  • Grab your main pocket, and position it 3” down from the top edge. Now, fold your pocket in half to find the center, and then line it up with the CF seam. Next, you should pin this in place and then topstitch the sides and bottom edges to attach it.
Attaching the main pocket

Moving onto the back pieces….

  • It’s best to attach the pockets before joining the center seam. Measure 10” up from the widest point of the crotch. This is where the top of your pocket will sit. Position it so that it is centered with an equal amount of fabric on either side. Pin in place, repeat for the other piece, and then topstitch it in place.
  • Now you can join the back pieces together at the center seam, hem the opening edges and the top edge exactly as you did for the front pieces.
  • Take your front piece and your back piece and lay them right sides together. Stitch them together at the side seams from the hemmed opening all the way down to the hem. Finish the raw edges and press.
  • Sew the inside leg seams, starting at one leg then sewing up over the crotch seam and back down the other leg. Finish the raw edge and press.

Top Tip! If you want to test the fit of your dungarees at this point, try them on pinning the top of the front and back to a t-shirt. Take in or let out the side seams as desired…

Attaching The Loops

  • Take your loop pieces and fold them so that the raw edges are together and it is not twisted. Finish the raw edges as desired, then position them at each edge of front bib lined up with the bottom of the hem. The loop should be behind the bib, visible above the top but with the raw edges hidden behind. Stitch in place with a couple of straight lines, a box or a box with a cross inside.
Attaching the loops to the back of the front bib
  • Grab your long strap piece and tuck the raw edges back inside to form a clean edge. Topstitch the edges in place. Then attach a safety pin to one end of the strap and feed it into the channel created by the hem at the back. Pull through until the strap has an even amount sticking out of each side. Finally, topstitch along the centre back on the hem to anchor the strap in place.
  • Finish the bottom hem as desired. We just did two folds of 3/8” and them topstitched it in place. 

Wearing Your DIY Dungaree Overalls

To tie the dungarees, take one side of the strap and pass it through the loop at the front, and then tie it in a knot to hold in place. Repeat on the other side.

Once you have them tied as you wish, it is possible to get them on and off without untying them so you won’t need to do that every time.

As another option, try cutting the strap in two. You can then attach the raw edges of each strap to the back of the bib, just as you did the loop. Each strap can then come directly over your shoulder and through the loop.


Or as I did on my red ones, you can leave off the loops and pass the strap through the back channel and then around and through the front channel, tying them together on one shoulder.

And then you are done!

We hope you enjoyed this Dungaree Tutorial and that you decide to make your own super comfy dungarees. If you do make your own DIY Dungaree Overalls, please make sure to tag us on social media or send us a picture!

We definitely have more pairs of these DIY Dungaree Overalls planned, so keep your eyes peeled.

If you really want to start sewing but don’t know where to begin, then make sure to check out our amazing classes. We can even get you started Learning to Sew from scratch.

Stay safe and keep smiling!

Rachel & Nikki

87 thoughts on “DIY Dungaree Overalls Tutorial – Quick, Simple, Comfy & Stylish!”

  1. Thank you very much for taking the time to write this tutorial. I’m a little confused by the instructions to measure length as they appear to be the same as those for the centre seam but I’m a beginner garment sewer so may just be reading them wrongly. Please help!

    1. Hi Anna-Marie, you are starting with your tape measure in the same place for both measurements but for the overall length you want to let the tape measure hang all the way down to your ankles. And for the centre seam it is only to your crotch seam (between your legs). In other words, the first measurement includes your legs and the second one doesn’t. Does that help?

  2. Michelle Mersom

    I love you Guys soooo Much!! I cannot wait to have a go at these! Can I ask what fabric choices you made, and what will work well for these? Both look totally amazing. Rachel I love your silvers in your hair! Stay safe and hope to se you soon x

    1. Hey Michelle! How are you? Lovely to hear from you. Mine were made from a duvet cover so polycotton I imagine. Nikki’s were made from a cotton linen. Can’t wait to see yours!

  3. Thank you so much for giving us such a fabulous freebie… I’ve had cracking afternoon drafting out the pattern and starting to sew it together. Thrilled with my first pocket (obviously, don’t get out much!!!) Can’t wait to get it finished tomorrow. Will send pic if I’m feeling brave. Also used duvet I bought ages ago…perfick! Thanks again for all the effort… love you guys x?

      1. Sorry, am a beginner so don’t have much of a clue but could you say approximately how much fabric you’d need to buy. Decent fabric here (New Zealand) is usually only 115cm wide for some reason. In Europe it was easy to find fabric of 150 cm width which would obviously be better. I’d love to have a go at these, they’re perfect.

    1. Hi Francesca. If you are confident working out how to adjust the proportions of all of the measurements, then you could try. You wouldn’t be able to just start with smaller rectangles based on the child’s measurements as all of the other adjustments for the shaping and ease would be out of proportion. If you manage it, we’d love to see!

  4. I am SO excited to make these! Do you know roughly how much fabric you used altogether? Just trying to figure out what I’ve got in my stash that is big enough to make a pair ? Thank you!

      1. I was wondering if one could double the material and make one cut for the front and one cut for the back instead of cutting two pieces for each

        1. Hi Jo, whether you fold or cut two separate pieces we would still recommend cutting both layers at once. The fold will be removed entirely when the shaping is added, but either way will work fine though. Happy sewing!

          1. Hello I’ve not done any sewing since I was at school and I fancy a pair of dungarees to many people who are into sewing your tutorial was easy to understand but to me it was like it was in a foreign language? Do you sell the pattern already on paper that I can purchase?? I look forward to your replyx

          2. Hi Bernice
            Im sorry but we dont produce a paper pattern for our dungarees.
            If you are confused we would recommend watching the video (or reading the blog post) a few times and then just taking it step by step. Use some fabric you don’t care about to start, so if you make a mistake it doesn’t matter and you can fix it for the final pair.
            Best of luck! We know you can do it!!

  5. Thank you for clear instructions- I have never drafted a pattern but may try these. These look great and so comfortable, but as I am a bit on the wide side and only 5’3″ I am not sure about how they would look. Would you suggest shorter length or longer length for my tubby proportions?!

    1. Hi Sue, I think it is all about what you thinks looks good on you. Why not cut them longer, and then you can have a play with different lengths once they are sewn and cut off whatever you don’t need? Happy sewing!

  6. Lovely Rachel & NIkki – how kind of you to put in all the work for nothing for our sewing pleasure. It took no time at all to do the drafting straight on to the fabric (an old duvet cover) and sewed up really quickly. I’m pretty pleased with the results and even though I wouldn’t normally wear dungarees I thought I’d have a go as I wasn’t wasting new fabric if it was a disaster but I think the result is defintely wearable. So thanks for pushing me out of my comfort zone, thanks for the inspiring pics and thanks for your efforts. Your online classes are great too!

      1. Rachel, thank you so much for sharing this tutorial! I am just completing my second pair, and they’re such a great addition to my wardrobe. The first I made 3/4 length in turquoise canvas, and added some contrast trim to the chest pocket and ankle hems. The second are full length, black denim. So I’ll have all 4 seasons covered! But I know I’ll be making more…! Thanks again!

  7. Great tutorial! I drafted straight onto my fabric (an old pair of curtains!) and did have a mild panic after cutting out my rectangles because I realised I hadn’t added my own seam allowance but they still fit me so I count that as a success! I can’t wait to make them properly in ‘real’ fabric now!

  8. Hi stitch sisters, thank you for this fab tutorial. I made a mock in an old duvet and then used a lovely lilac linen. They are fabulous! I love them. So comfy and as my teenage daughter said ‘quite cool’ !! Thank you xx

      1. Hi! Canyou use this to make dungerees for men? Or would you change it at all? I have made a pair for my wife which are super! I love them!

  9. Thank you for taking the time to make this pattern. I’m new to sewing so this is a good test for me. I’m using a duvet cover which is space themed but i got it cheap so I’m not too worried if it doesn’t go to plan. Just an observation and a question if that’s ok. So you say you need 4 panels, 2 front and 2 back but in the instructions for the front it doesn’t refer to 2 panels so I was a bit confused. Do I need to do 2 symmetrical pieces for the front and 2 for the back as well? I have cut 4 panels and now the look huge so I’m not sure if I’ve done too many panels or go my measurements wrong. Thank you again x

    1. Hi Sarah, yes that is correct. You need to cut two rectangles for the front and two for the back. If your fabric is folded when you cut, you will get two of each. Just make sure that each set of two is laid right sides together before you start adding the shaping so that you end up with two mirrored pieces (a right side and a left side). They are supposed to be oversized but will look even more huge when flat because you have included a crotch extension, but when on your body part of that width will go through your legs so it won’t be quite as large. Plus, you have the option to slim them down later if there is too much ease in the pattern for your liking.

      1. So I made them and something definitely went wrong haha. They were big enough for 2 or 3 of me to fit in and I’m a size 18-20. Any ideas about what I might have done wrong? It’s something to do with my measurements. I did 1 x my measurements for each the front panels and 1 x my measurements For each of my back length but that meant 4 x my measurements. I must be understanding something properly. I’m not giving up though, I want to try again. Thank you

  10. Thankyou so so much for this brilliant no pattern ‘pattern’!
    Have made 2 long pairs and one short and going to make another short pair.
    Totally fab and comfy to wear..I think I’m a bit obsessed now as so many gorgeous fabrics to choose from.
    Thankyou you are both wonderful for doing this.

  11. Hello! Thank you so much for the tutorial! I’m making a pair now but I’m thinking of making them short dungarees. I’ve measured the length as 30” this sits on my knees and I though I can make them shorter if need be however my crutch measurement is 24” leaving little material for the length in the leg. Should I follow this tutorial exactly or will it change a bit for shorts?

  12. Hi Stitchsisters,
    Well, what a tutorial! I actually have a wearable item (a total first for me!) Made out of my sons fleecy duvet as a practice set, they will be perfect for a cosy night in. I will definitely be making more in fabric fit for the public very soon! 😉 I did, however, do something wrong somewhere as the leg side seams were equal but the inside seam wasn’t, the back was shorter, somehow! Not a problem though as I just hemmed them equal-ish!
    Thank you and keep stitching xx

  13. Hello you lovely, lovely humans!

    Thank-you soooo much for writing and sharing this great pattern!

    I am SO excited about these, and I have got up to this stage:

    ‘Now, onto the two front pieces…
    Laying them right sides together (RST). Match up the CF from the top to the end of crotch curve (the wider part). Stitch with a ⅝” seam. (Don’t sew below the crotch curve as this will be the leg portion of the dungarees.) Finish the raw edge in your chosen manner (pinking shears, overlock, zig-zag, etc) and press.’

    But I currently just have two rectangles for my front pieces and the markings on one of them on the pattern side… I haven’t cut along the markings (crotch curve etc), but the photo below this bit looks like you have cut and hemmed it so now I’m confused!

    Any help of advice would be VERY much appreciated! 🙂

    1. Hi Amie, glad you are excited to make your dungas! To clarify, you need to cut out the pieces after you have drawn the shapes onto the fabric (both layers). We do not have photos of every step and the image you see is the what is will like after the crotch seam has been sewn and the edges finished. First cut out the shapes you drafted onto the fabric (so that they are no longer just rectangles), then you can go ahead and sew that seam and finish as you wish. Any other problems, just let us know. Kind regards, Rachel.

  14. I’ve successfully finished them!!! 😀

    I’m so in love!! <3

    Is there a way I can post a picture of them in a comment on here?

    1. Hi Aime!
      You can either mail us a pic, post it on our Facebook community page or tag us on Instagram!
      Can’t wait to see them.

  15. Hi, great pattern which I’m going to try. Only thing is I can’t read the first few lines of measurement instructions as your lovely photos seem to have overlapped them on the format. I’ve looked at your site thru a browser, just in case, but still the same. Is it just me?

  16. Thank you very much for putting out such a useful pattern, doubly needed now that it looks like it will be sometime before some of us are likely to need anything but comfortable garments suitable for taks in the home. Just about to try making this pattern. I am marking it out on paper and I am a bit confused as to whether the pattern for the body of the overalls includes the 5/8 inch seam allowance for the sides and/or the allowance for hemming on the bodice and the hems.

    1. Hi Barbara, the pattern is so roomy that we haven’t worried about adding extra for the seam allowance. If you want a deeper hem allowance or turnups, you might want to add an extra 1-2″ at the bottom. Happy sewing x

      1. Thank you so much for getting back to me so promptly. I’m making these for my own benefit and also, as part of a series of reviews of free patterns from the internet (either as pdf downloads that don’t require page upon page to be printed out or instructions so you can draft your own pattern) and that don’t require much in the way of haberdashery, for our sewing club blog.

  17. I am going to use this pattern to teach my 11 year old how to sew. We will send you a pic when we are done. I haven’t used a sewing machine or cut a pattern in 15 years, but bought a new machine today so here goes.

    1. Best of luck Sophie! What a wonderful thing to do with your 11 year old. We have lots of free classes which might be if interest to you both to sew together too.

    2. Elizabeth Fischer

      Good for you Sophie! We are not related but I am proud of you. Sadly most young ladies don’t even know how to sew on a button; let alone put a Hem in a pair of pants! I learned to sew in home economics class in 7th & 8th grades! Now I sew quilts as well as my own clothes. If you get stuck do not forget U~tube University! It gives me lots of Ideas!
      Enjoy Learning!

  18. Hi! I’m from Europe and I have no idea how American measurements work! 😀 Can I convert all the measurements given here to centimetres using an online converter or is that going to mess something up? It’s a bit hard to navigate otherwise

    1. I have started working with inches and it everything seems to be good, but I ran into another problem. My back width is about 28 cm, which is like 11 inches. However, this means that when I take in those 4 and 7 inches while creating the back pattern, there’s no fabric left there! Can I just take in the same 6 inches as I did in the front? Or did I take my measurements wrong and it really shouldn’t be 28 cm? 😀

      1. Hi Greta,

        The first thing to do is to double check your measurements. If you are confident they are correct then go ahead and mark your back as per the instructions. Remember that you are cutting two pieces for the back, so they will eventually be sewn together. The back portion doesn’t cover the entire back, it is just a small section much like the front.
        Hope this helps

  19. Hi thanks so much for this tutorial! I’m a novice and have a dumb question, when cutting out the rectangles using the measurements I’ve taken, do I cut to those exact measurements or allow extra around the edges for seam allowance?
    Thanks you!

  20. Thank you so much for this pattern! Measuring myself was so simple with your instructions and it looks and fits so great. It’s such a nice pattern to play around with and tweak.

  21. Girls. I can’t believe my luck – watching Countryfile this morning (which I seldom watch) & admiring someone’s dungarees……thought, ‘I must make some’ – an hour later that was out of my mind because I was searching for sewing machine oil- which I couldn’t find, so I opened up Pinterest and ta da -there you were – obviously means dungarees are on the menu….. after I clear the table from a week of sewing mayhem. Thanks to you both

  22. I just tried making these and it worked nearly perfectly! Only problem was that the dungarees came up to about my knee height (I measured like you said). Could it just be because I have extra long legs? And if so should I just increase the leg part?

    Also, is there a step to hem the bottom of the legs or did I miss that lol

    1. Hello, great you nearly got there. If the fit on the top half is good, then feel free to just lengthen the leg by cutting horizontally a couple inches below the crotch and inserting some extra paper to get the desired length. Perhaps take an inside leg measurement and compare it to this first pair so you know how much extra you need. Apologies if we missed off the hemming. We are just putting the finishing touches on a YouTube tutorial for the dungarees which definitely includes hemming and even turn ups. Hopefully that will help x

  23. Hi, Thank you for a lovely tutorial. I would love to make a pair of these for myself and was wondering if there is anyway I could adapt them to be maternity friendly instead of just making them extra big? I’m a beginner sewist and have never modified a pattern so not quite sure which measurements I should change.

    1. Hi Mathilde, dungarees are actually very forgiving on their own as you can just loosen the straps to let the apron fit better over your bump. It would cover less of you at the front though, so you way want to add a couple of inches to the top of your pattern so that can come up a bit higher. Hope that helps.

  24. Really good pattern!! So adaptable, Ive made a tester pair and now onto the real ones!!! Big fun all round, so empowering to be drafting ones own patterns!!!
    many thanks, Anwyl

  25. Hi I am new to sewing and decided these are going to be my first time of clothing I make…excited! Would a double duvet be enough fabric? Thank you

    1. Yes it would, it would be plenty! Remember that sometimes a double duvet has two patterns on it, a different one on each side, so you may be able to make two pairs!

  26. This is the first time I’ve made anything on my sewing machine, and although I had to do a bit of internet searching along the way, I’m really pleased with the end result! Im especially excited about making my second pair which I know will be an improvement on my first now that I’ve learnt so much from making these! Thanks for the pattern. Great fun.

    1. You are very welcome! Every garment you make in your sewing journey will be a learning experience. Make sure you check out our Online classes and courses, we can help you improve your sewing and dressmaking skills.
      We would also love to see a picture of your dungarees!

  27. Using this tutorial for the second time, I’ve really enjoyed adapting it to try new things (pattern matched seams, used french seams, added a lining etc), thank you for creating something that gives me the freedom to experiment and test myself whilst still being reassured that I’ll get something super cool out of it at the end!

  28. This is exactly what I’m looking to make for my kids. Have you ever made them in children’s sizes? Would I need to change any measurements when making the pattern for a 5 and 7 year old?

    1. We haven’t made them for kids but we know others have. The principles will be the same but you may come across an issue with the bib at the front of back being too small. If so, its fine to just choose the width you want it (such as 5″ or 6″, but whatever suits you)

  29. Pingback: Mario and Luigi | Casual Costuming

  30. Thank you so much for your tutorial and a free pattern! I drafted it onto an old sheet and used that like a paper pattern to make lightweight denim dungarees for my daughter. She absolutely loves them, especially the huge pockets! She wore them to school today and got a load of compliments.
    Your tutorial was really easy to understand and I love all the illustrations as they really helped.
    Thanks again!

  31. I really enjoyed not having loads of pattern pieces on paper to print and cut. How refreshing to draw the pattern straight onto fabric (yeah, I skipped the paper stage!) using my own measurements and a ruler! Thank you so much for sharing this.
    The video was super helpful and I edited the plan slightly to make them shorts, make the front pocket big enough to carry a book(!) and added in seam pockets with a zip each side. Definitely my favourite piece of clothing in my wardrobe!!! I made it in a navy material with sunflowers on!!!

  32. Great pattern and instructions! Thanks so much 🙏 I’ve just made my 1st pair from Sanderson curtain fabric I’ve had in my stash for 25+ yrs! I would like to make a pair similar to what I bought with narrow straps and top edges gathered front and back. Thinking I would cut as per pattern leg width to top and then gather and cut the arm holes and make straps / binding all in one. Any thoughts? TIA

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